With just a little planning, gardeners can get jump on the planting season by starting seeds indoors. It's easy, once you have decided what you are going to grow from seed. The back of most seed packets will provide you with basic information: how long the seed will take to germinate and an estimate of how long to grow the plant indoors before transplanting into the garden. Find out the average safe date for transplanting in your area, and count backwards to find out when to start your seeds. Take time to consider how you are going to provide the required warmth, humidity and strong light to your seed starting project. Check for information on whether the seeds need light or dark (a few seeds have specific requirements). Before using any pots, trays or tools you have used before, wash them with a solution of one part household bleach to nine parts water.

• Containers: Don't worry too much about the pots you use for your seedlings, as long as they are clean and provide good drainage. There are many very handy seed starting trays and pots available, made from plastic, clay, paper and peat. Another option is Jiffy 7 Peat Pellets. These are made of compressed peat in a mesh bag that expands when soaked with water to form both a plantable pot and the planting medium.

• Planting Medium: The medium is extremely important. For good germination, seeds will do best when planted in a light, spongy mixture that has good moisture retention and is well drained. Using a sterile growing medium such as vermiculite or a peat-based seed starting mixture will minimize disease problems. Wet your seeding medium and allow it to drain before sowing the seeds into it. Watering over the top can dislodge seeds.

• Germination: When it germinates, a seed will send up a sprout with two seed leaves. It is important to wait for the next set of leaves to develop before disturbing the seedling, because seed leaves are not true leaves. They are called cotyledons. Take care when handling tender young seedlings - they can be damaged easily.

• A One-Step Method: Sow two or three seeds at the appropriate depth in each individual container. After the seeds germinate and the seedlings begin to form true leaves, pinch off the smallest seedlings, leaving only the most vigorous plant in each container. Continue to care for the remaining plant until time to transplant to the garden.

• A Two-Step Method: Sow the seeds thinly at the appropriate depth in a tray or other container filled with planting medium. Cover the seeds with fine Perlite or vermiculite to help keep them evenly moist. When the seeds germinate and develop their first set of true leaves, transplant the seedlings into containers with more growing room.

• After Sowing the Seeds: Seeds generally need a soil temperature between 65° and 75°F to germinate. If you have trouble maintaining that temperature, consider using a heating mat or cable. Covering your containers with plastic will help hold in moisture and create a humid environment. Be careful not to let them get too hot under the plastic, especially if you have the containers in a sunny area or under a warm light. Remove the plastic as soon as you see any signs of germination. Keep the planting medium evenly moist, using lukewarm water if possible. Water from below to avoid disturbing the tender seedlings.

• Lighting: Seeds may not need strong light to germinate, but it is essential as soon as true leaves have developed. Some gardeners prefer to place the seeded containers under lights immediately after sowing so that they won't have to worry about moving them when they begin to germinate. There several plant lights available that do a good job. Fluorescent lights provide strong, cool, inexpensive light to plants.

Plain fluorescent bulbs are adequate when starting seeds; however, it is a good idea to use at least one ‘grow light’ tube if you are going to keep the plants under lights for any extended period of time. It is difficult to provide enough light with incandescent bulbs without overheating the seedlings. As soon as the seeds begin to germinate, keep the lights on 16 hours a day, and gradually decrease the time to 12 hours a day as the seedlings mature. Keep the light fixture about 4-6 inches above the plants, adjusting the height as the plants grow. To insure strong, sturdy plants, keep the light within 12 inches. Seedlings not receiving enough light quickly become weak and leggy.

• Fertilizing: Begin fertilizing seedlings when the first true leaves develop. Provide a weekly feeding with a fertilizer.

Continue feeding the seedlings the half-strength fertilizer solution until they have been transplanted. Remember, you are their only source of food.

• Transplanting: Don't move plants to the garden too quickly. Even cold-tolerant varieties need to be hardened off. ‘Hardening off’ is a process of acclimating plants to the light, humidity and temperatures found outdoors. Begin by placing the plants outdoors in a sheltered area out of direct sunlight for a couple of hours the first day. Gradually increase the time spent outside over the next 5-7 days before transplanting the seedlings into the garden. With a few notable exceptions such as tomatoes, most seedlings want to be planted at the same level at which they were grown in their pot. If you are using peat pots, be sure the rims don't stick up above the soil surface or they will act as wicks, drawing water out of the ground.